By David Jarnagin
Vegetable Tannage: “A generic term to cover the process of making leather by the use of
tannins obtained from barks, woods or other parts of plants and trees, as distinguished from “mineral tannages”.
Belt – Vegetable tanned leather used in making drive belts for machinery.
Bridle – Vegetable tanned leather finished on the grain side “smooth side”.
Common Russet – A vegetable tanned leather that has undergone a very heavy oiling during the
currying process, used for pump bags or bellows. Not the same russet used in military equipment. Water-resistant.
Fair – Leather in its natural color. Oak tanned.
Flesh – The rough side of the leather, connecting the skin loosely to the body.
Glazed or Varnished – Known as patent leather, used for dress boots, shoes, and fancy
mountings.
Grain – The smooth side of the leather, known as the “grain membrane” in contact with the
epidermis.
Oil finished – Natural colored leather finished with oil (slightly darkens color).
Russet: See stained leather at the bottom of page.
Split – Leather made by removing the grain; rough on both sides and lower in value.
Upper leather – Same as waxed leather; used to make shoe uppers.
Waxed: Leather finished on the rough side.
Period terms of finished leather
From Campbell Morfit’s book on tanning, 1852.
Stretched Leather: Made from cow and young oxen hides for crop-leather. No oil or tallow needed.
Used for saddlery, harness-making, and shoe soles. Well stretched and pressed for drying. Similar to rein leather.
Sleeked Leather: Strong hides polished with glass for shine. Used for cartridge boxes and similar
items.
Tallowed skins or grained leather: Grain brought out instead of polished. More flexible and
moisture-resistant. Used for carriage-tops and harnesses.
Oil-Leather: Two types: black (harness) and uncolored (shoemakers). Very durable. Sold as whole
skins or croupons. Least stretch, used for straps and firm applications.
Buff Leather
Originally called “losh” or “lash”. Not buffalo; tanned from cow hides, often with skin defects. Grain removed during tanning. Tanned in spring/fall due to lime processing. Replaced by waxed leather in 1858 due to low commercial interest.
Ordnance Dept. requirement: Firm consistency, not spongy.
Buff leather in three forms:
- Natural or buff: No whitening added, but stained for a more pleasant yellow.
- Whitened buff: Buff leather with whitening, e.g. Paris Whitening (chalk).
- Blackened Buff: Dyed black. Yellow on back reveals origin.
Hungary Leather
Tanned using alum, salt, and suet. Fast tanning (~2 months). Strong leather for laces and tack.
Morocco Leather
Made from goat/kid skin (or imitation from sheep). Characterized by unique grain and colors: red, yellow, blue,
bronze, purple, black.
Russia Red Leather
Vegetable tanned with aromatic oils. Insect/mildew resistant. Embossed with grain patterns. Used in bindings and
hatbands.
White Leather
Used by shoemakers. Undyed and unfinished, but not universal to all shoemakers.
Leather Finishes
Copperas: Iron mordant used for dyeing leather black. Sold as Patent Liquid Grain.
Enameled Leather: Sometimes called tarred. Buffed and finished on grain side. Split grade available.
Close to patent leather.
Jacked: Glazed finish applied manually or by machine.
Patent Leather: Glossy finish on the flesh side. Distinguished by grain still on back. Deeper
transparent shine than modern patent. Multiple colors.
Pyrolignate of iron: Iron mordant listed in Ordnance Manual, but not commonly used by tanners.
Sleeked: Glazed finish by hand.
Stained: Darkened with logwood. Found on slings. Used on hemlock tanned or blemished leather.
Interesting Information
Logwood: Brought to Europe by Spaniards. Also called Campeachy Wood. Important natural dye-stuff.
Leather Industries of America Research Laboratory Dictionary of Leather Terminology, University of Cincinnati,
8th edition, 1991, Page 14.
